To stay - Podere Spedalone

Giancarlo Toso is very proud to tell me that his guests don't come to Spedalone for anything . . . they come for nothing, or more precisely, no noise, no stress, no effort. | by Mark Abouzeid

Location: Cosona, 6 km from Pienza
Typology: B & B accommodation
Value: €€€

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Posted August 29th, 2008

Arriving at Spedalone, navigating the dirt track that separates this Tuscan 'island' from civilization, I am struck by a sign that simply states, "Il Gusto del Silenzio" (a taste for silence). At first it seems presumptuous but hours later on my way out, I realize that this says all one needs to say about Spedalone and Giancarlo Toso.

Podere Spedalone is a place to relax, turn off and enjoy Tuscan life in all it's facets: from the silence of the surrounding landscapes to the tastes of Giancarlo's own products; from the cool waters of the pool to the almost colonial ambiance of his rooms; everywhere I find what can only be described as quiet hedonistic pleasure!

Don't be mistaken, this is not some faux Tuscan renovation by a vacant foreign landlord but an actual working farm run by Giancarlo, himself. The structure itself was once a an old monastery which adds a uniqueness not found in typical Tuscan 'Podere'. As we tour the cantina, Giancarlo shows me an excavation still under way where roman glass and ceramics were found supporting his belief that this was once the site of a roman settlement. Despite finding reference to earlier inhabitants, the oldest still existing aspect of Spedalone dates between 600 - 700 ad.

Guests soon come to know, each time they sit down to a meal or accept a drink, that their host, despite calling himself a contadino, has a refined palette in everything he does. His decor is simple with a few exceptional pieces setting the tone; his cuisine revolves around delighting the palette without overwhelming the stomach; and his Podere is a haven from modern life and a welcome, peaceful repose from a day's tourism.

Despite being a B & B, Giancarlo does offer dinner to those who would join him. With glass walls separating the restaurant quality kitchen from the dining room, guests share the experience of his cooking and the table with other guests. . . truly a lovely way to pass an evening.

The rooms all blend the traditional architecture of Spedalone with comfort and style. While some rooms reflect almost a colonial style, others emphasize the metre thick stone walls and wood beams. I recommend the rooms to the outside upper part of the Podere for their afternoon and sunset light which streams through the wood venetian blinds creating a dramatic effect. They are close to the car park and pool as well, but any space in this complex is worth the price.

For something more private, Giancarlo offers guests a small cottage with it's stone fireplace and spectacular views from all sides.

Podere Spedalone is not cheap, in fact it is in the high end of the market for Agriturismi. However, for those who appreciate reserved hospitality, charm and true character, this is a must for either a weekend getaway or as a convenient base for a week's sojourn into Tuscany.

At a Glance

Location: Cosona, approximately 6 km from Pienza

Typology: B & B accommodation

15 rooms – all with en-suite bathroom, most with ceiling fans and queen-sized beds that can be divided into separate single beds (one room has two separate single beds, and one room has one single bed). These rooms include:

* 1 apartment with 3 bedrooms for 6 people, with cozy living room and ancient Tuscan fireplace
* 1 apartment with 3 bedrooms for 5 people, with kitchen and spacious living area with ancient Tuscan fireplace
* 1 apartment for 4 people, with kitchen and spacious living area
* 1 apt with 2 rooms4 people
* 1 apt with 3 rooms 5/6 people
* 1 Casina with 2 rooms for ¾ people kitchen, dining room, special view, reserved
. * 2 large suites for disabled persons, including separate sleeping area for a helper.

All rooms have central floor heating and heated towel racks in the bathrooms; some rooms have small Danish wood-burning stoves.

Amenities -
* Outdoor pool immersed in the olive grove
* Fitness center with Turkish bath and Jacuzzi (each able to accommodate 6 people)

Going Tuscan recommends: Spedalone's rooms are beautiful without doubt, but we suggest you make the most of this oasis. The massage therapist, Lalla, is a genius for curing what ails you . . . she spends one month every year in India perfecting her craft. After a hard day's relaxing or sightseeing, spend the evening at table with Giancarlo: his cuisine is as delicious as his company is charming. Even the New York Times has complimented his cooking.

Rates (indicative) - Between €90 - 180 per night per person.

Podere Spedalone
strada per Cosona Pienza - Sienza
Giancarlo, the farmer
Tel. +39 348 3406166
+39 348 0175973
Fax +39 0578 748634
http://www.poderespedalone.it
eMail: info@poderespedalone.it